“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity” ―John Muir, Our National Parks

Nature preservation and conservation efforts date back as far as the mid 1800’s. Pioneers such as John Burroughs, George Perkins, John Muir, and many others have convinced us as Americans the importance of preserving land, water, and wildlife. Many of these important people in nature preservation history have tried to officially enact laws that would prevent the destruction of available sites and resources. Even George Washington’s home at Mt. Vernon came very close to being lost to the ravages of time.

On March 1, 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed The Act of Dedication law that created Yellowstone National Park, the first National Park in the U.S. and probably the world. Later, avid outdoorsman and President Theodore Roosevelt created many more national parks including Yosemite and signed the Antiquities Act of 1906 that preserved more national landmarks such as the Grand Canyon.

In 1933 all national monuments, national parks and military historical sites were put under the single umbrella of the U.S. Park Service. And finally, in October 1966 the National Historic Preservation Act was enacted to preserve historic sites and lands across the country.

Why is this important? We as humans need nature and these collections of acts and laws helped protect and set aside open spaces, wildlife refuges and historical landmarks that are a benefit for all. Now virtually every locale in the U.S. has a place nearby where people can experience the open spaces of the Great Outdoors whether it’s a local park, desert, forest or shoreline.

Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, getting away from the go go go is a necessity. But sometimes packing a bag and getting away for a few days to recharge is not always possible. So I grab a pack, water, some snacks, my camera, and off I go to a local trail. During my visit I can not only take a breather, I can practice some photography techniques, teach my kids proper trail etiquette, have some bonding time with my wife, or just enjoy the world outside the box.

Check out your local park’s website. A lot of parks and nature preserves have activities besides walking/hiking trails. Some offer activities like tours guided by local docents where you can explore what types of plants and wildlife are in the park, night sky hiking and photography groups. There are also plenty of fun activities for your kids to enjoy. If you arrive early in the morning when it’s quiet you’d be surprised how much wildlife you can see that are able to thrive adjacent to or even inside a large city.

So the next time you need to take a break you don’t necessarily have to go on a full-on expedition to a national park. Just head to a local nature park or preserve, enjoy some nature, recharge and remember why these resources are important to us!

California by the numbers:

118 State Parks

31 National Wildlife Refuges

19 National Forests

11 State Reserves

11 State Wildlife Areas

9 National Parks

9 State Recreation Areas

9 State Fish Hatcherys

8 State Forests

5 State Historic Sites

3 National Historic Sites

3 National Recreation Areas

1 National Seashore

1 Metro and City Parks

1 State Nature Preserve

The post Why You Should Explore Your Local Trails and Nature Preserves appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

To the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Egyptians the rising of the star Sirius signaled the start of “The Dog Days of Summer” when the oppressive heat was attributed to causing madness, war, and even befouled the taste of wine. (Nobody likes befouled tasting wine)

Though we are pretty sure there are no evil spirits in the air; hot weather, sun exposure, and overexertion can lead to serious consequences that could lead to death if not properly identified and treated. 

A Smart Kit Fox Lays Low During the Hottest Part of the Day

A big part of the body’s function is temperature regulation. In hot weather, the body tries to cool itself by releasing heat through sweating. Under normal circumstances, the evaporative cooling is enough to counteract the heat, but lack of hydration, overactivity, and weather conditions such as high humidity can push the body to the limits.

Sign of Serious Heat-Related illnesses:

Heat Cramps– Heavy sweating caused by overexertion in the heat is going to cause an electrolyte imbalance which will contribute to muscle spasms and cramping. The body will also attempt to cool itself further by opening blood vessels near the surface of the skin to radiate more heat from the body causing redness. 

Heat Exhaustion– As the imbalance of overheating and dehydration gets more severe people will continue to experience: heavy sweating, clammy skin, a quickened faint pulse, headache, fatigue, dizziness, and possibly fainting. 

Heat Stroke– This is the body no longer coping with the extreme heat and is a serious condition requiring emergency care. In addition to the symptoms of Heat Exhaustion, skin can be reddened, but hot and dry as dehydration worsens. Other symptoms include confusion, abdominal cramping, and a body temperature of 103 degrees or higher. 

*****Danger Warning***** Heat Exhaustion and Heat Stroke are serious medical conditions as the body is literally cooking and serious complications can occur such as organ damage and even death. 

People suffering from either should call 911, stop all activity, get in the shade and attempt to cool off using cold compresses or cool water.

Prevention:

Clothing– The proper clothing for hot weather should be light in color to reflect the heat, be lightweight, allow airflow and provide maximum coverage. 

Included with your clothing should be a hat and sunglasses to protect the eyes from glare and sun damage. 

Sunscreen– The results of sunburn is exactly the same as being exposed to an open flame. Pain, blistering and detrimental changes in your body’s thermal regulation can occur. The proper wearing of sunscreen should be part of your outdoor pursuits year-round. Skin cancer is considered highly preventable, but it is still a big problem for active people who are exposed to the sun at a much higher rate than the average person. 

Make sure your sunscreen is at least SPF 15, broad-spectrum (blocks UV A and B wavelength) and not expired. When applying sunscreen be sure to use it liberally at least a half an hour before going outside. Re-apply every two hours or after swimming, sweating or toweling off.

   How Not to Leave a National Park

Preparation– Most people that visit the Great Outdoors and get themselves into trouble do so because they did not properly prepare themselves for the environment they were entering. Proper hydration and electrolyte balance begin days before your hike, not the morning of. Avoid drinks that are diuretics such as caffeine and alcohol they will only compound the effects of dehydration.

You should be carrying extra water, sunscreen and have a communications plan just in case there is a problem.

Be honest about your abilities and the shape you are in. Even the most physically fit can be taken down by extreme heat after extended exertion. If you are out of shape and not acclimated to the environment you are starting off with a huge deficit and could be placing yourself and others at risk- especially in isolated areas where distance and terrain can delay emergency response times.

Limiting Activity– Take a cue from the Animal Kingdom and take it easy during the midday heat. If you are going to venture out when it’s hot, get an early start. You should be done by 10:00 am or earlier- not just getting started.

This of course is a general guideline, if it’s nearing triple digits by breakfast time you need to have the courage to change your plans to something less strenuous that hopefully includes lots of shade and cool water. 

Going on a helicopter ride while on vacation is tons of fun, but it shouldn’t be a medivac- Don’t die dumb!

Stay Cool, have an awesome summer!

The post Preventing Heat Related Injury and Illness  appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

We are getting into the the peak of the summer season and almost everybody likes going to the beach, to cool off, play in the water and have fun. 

But just like anywhere else you go in the outdoors it’s good to do a little pre-planning and be aware of your surroundings when you get there. In other words: pack your bathing suit, your sunscreen and don’t forget your common sense!

Do your homework in advance and make sure the beach you are going to has Lifeguards on duty. Most city and state beaches in California that are frequented by visitors have Lifeguards, but their hours can be limited, so make sure they will be there when you are there. 

Always Swim Near A Lifeguard ! 

If you are visiting a place unfamiliar to you take the time to speak to the Lifeguards on duty. They will be more than happy to tell you what hazards you should avoid and the safest place to swim. In reality you should do this every time you visit the beach as ocean conditions are always changing.

Your friendly neighborhood Lifeguard is also a great resource for finding the best local spots for fish tacos or whatever else you may be craving after a day at the beach.

Water Hazards

It wasn’t that long ago that being a strong swimmer was considered a type of superpower. Up until the 1950’s there were appalling mass drownings along both coasts that lead to the establishment of professional Lifeguard services on par with any other first responders. 

One such incident occurred in the spring of 1918 when in a single afternoon 13 people drowned and another 40 were rescued at Ocean Beach, San Diego. The Lifeguards and citizens that helped repeatedly made rescues until they were so exhausted they couldn’t make another trip out into the water. Larger than normal surf, strong rip currents and an unfamiliar public created a perfect storm for such a calamity.

After this tragedy Lifeguard coverage was increased and augmented by Police officers that were strong swimmers. To this day the badge worn by San Diego Lifeguards is nearly identical to the San Diego Police department’s.

One hundred years later the two leading causes of ocean rescues made by Lifeguards is still due to rip currents and surf. With more people than ever surfing, paddling and swimming it isn’t uncommon for a couple mile stretch of beach to have over a hundred rescues and thousands of preventative acts and warnings made by Lifeguards over the course of a single weekend.

What is a Rip Current?

Rip currents (not riptides) are formed when the water pushed up on the beach by breaking waves needs to flow back out to sea again. Just like in your bathtub the escaping water will naturally find the low point and flow down hill. 

This low point on the ocean floor will cut a channel through the near shore sandbar. As time goes on this will get bigger and the rip more defined. As wind and wave action increases the more water will flow and rip currents will grow more intense and can stretch as much as half a mile out to sea. 

The period following a set of breaking waves will usually energize the rip currents. An outgoing tide can also cause rip currents to be more active as the water level along the entire beach is basically draining out to sea.

Spotting a Rip Current

A telltale sign of a rip current is a streak or swath of bubbly, brown sandy water stretching away from the beach. If you look close there should be a choppy appearance to the water since it is flowing against the otherwise normal direction of the water flow. 

The waves in this area generally won’t break or they will fizzle out due to the increased water depth. The sandbar next to the rip current may be just a few feet deep while the area where the rip is flowing can be over your head. Be very careful of this drop-off especially with small children. 

Sometimes you won’t see the sandy water, but you should see an area of water that looks relatively calm, sometimes darker blue, with waves breaking on either side. To most people that looks like the safest place to be, but you will end up walking right into the feeder of the rip.

Rip currents can also be caused by large objects and underwater structures. Rocks, bends in the coastline, piers and jetties will almost always have a rip current on at least one side. This is caused by the water flowing down the coast and running into the obstacle and changing direction. Water cannot be compressed so it will flow around the object and change direction looking for the path of least resistance which is usually out to sea and deeper water.

These types of areas should be given a wide berth or avoided all together. Besides that, swimming under a pier might expose you to dangling fishhooks and you don’t want to be the catch of the day!

Getting Out of a Rip Current

If you feel yourself being dragged out, remain calm and swim parallel to shore. Your first instinct will be to swim straight in as that is the shortest distance to dry land, but at this point you are in a current that may be flowing faster than you can swim and you will quickly exhaust yourself. 

If you feel to tired or unable to figure out which direction to go- try to relax, float and raise your arm to signal you need assistance. If you paid attention at the top you picked a guarded beach and Lifeguards should quickly come to your aid. In reality they probably spotted you before you even hit the water.

You should consider getting a good pair of swim fins made for use in the ocean. That means shorter blades and an open foot strap, not an enclosed heal. Dive style fins with a full heel cup will pop right off in the surf. Bodysurfing is about the most fun you can have in the ocean. Remember to always keep and arm extended to protect your head and neck from hitting the ocean floor.

You should ALWAYS use the Buddy System. Theres a reason that the number one rule of SCUBA diving is to never go alone. This is important for both adults and children and is a good habit to get into wherever you go in the great outdoors.

Know your limitations

If you aren’t a strong swimmer and the day you come to the beach the waves are huge stay out. Even people who swim regularly in pools will have a tough time in the ocean where the water can be colder and the water and waves much rougher than the chlorinated conditions they are used to.

The same goes for SCUBA divers. We know it would be disappointing to plan a dive trip all year only to find out that on the day of your dive the waves are big, but that’s how it goes sometimes. Don’t press you luck by going out anyway. 

When the waves churn up the water there will be no visibility and returning your unused gear is cheaper than a trip to the hospital. 

Likewise if you have only done boat dives in the tropics doing beach or rock entries into the ocean is a whole different story and you should go with a local guide who knows the local three R’s – Rocks, Rips and Reefs. 

Not knowing the area and terrain underwater is going to set you up for failure. (See Rip Currents Above) 

Be honest about your current state of physical conditioning. If just carrying the gear from the car has you huffing and puffing entering the ocean for your first dive in many years is a very bad idea. 

Finally, alcohol and swimming don’t mix. As you know a few beers can alter your judgement- we’re looking at YOU lower back tattoo!

Swimming while intoxicated can lead to disastrous results up to and including death. DON’T DO IT.

If the beach you are on allows alcohol on the beach save that for the end of the day when you are done with all water activity.

Coastal Cliffs and Bluffs

Many beaches along the west coast a bordered by bluffs and cliffs some higher than 300 feet. When going to a beach near these cliffs there are some safety tips take into consideration. 

When going down to the beach it is important to stay on marked trails. Many California  Lifeguard agencies have added technical rope rescue to their bag of tricks due to people continuing to get stuck on ledges and hanging drops they thought were a way to the sand. 

Another precaution to take once down on the beach is to stay away from the base of the cliffs. Rock slides and entire avalanches happen regularly as water seeps through the sandstone and create cracks and eventually cliff collapse. Stay as far out from the cliffs as possible and avoid sitting in front of vertical or overhanging areas. 

***Pay attention to all posted signs or asks Lifeguards or locals where the safest place to sit is***

Sea Creatures

“Are there sharks?”

This is probably the number one question asked of Lifeguards by tourists since Jaws hit the screens ‘75 and the answer is YES.

Anytime you enter the wilderness, and the Pacific Ocean is the largest wilderness in the world, your ranking on the food chain drops significantly. There are Great Whites, Hammerheads and Makos, but the reality is they tend to stay in deeper water where there is larger food for them. 

You are much more likely to have a run in with a cousin of the shark family, the stingray. Rays like to lurk in shallow water looking for small tidbits to eat like sand crabs. They are pretty well camouflaged on the sandy bottom and have an annoying habit of further covering themselves up with sand so you may only see its eyes or a faintest outline of these cartilaginous creepers.

If you step on a stingray you are going to know it. 

Their defense mechanism kicks in which is to slash upwards with their tail and the hidden barb underneath to get out from under whatever it is that just stepped on its back. 

A stingray wound can look like a pinprick, a long laceration or deep puncture wound. It all depends on what the angle was when it came into contact with you lower leg or foot. 

Now the sting- the pain is often described like a giant bee sting and will burn and possibly radiate from the wound site up your leg. Sweating, muscle cramps and some nausea may also present itself. 

Remaining calm will help prevent your heart from pumping even harder and spreading the venom. It is thought that those that are allergic to bee stings can have a stronger reaction and possibly experience anaphylaxis but the evidence is mixed.

If there are Lifeguards near they are going to dress your wound to stop any bleeding and then take you to their main tower to soak your foot in hot water. This hot water bath will breakdown the proteins in the venom and after 45 minutes to an hour you should be good to go with just a minor cut and a sea story. 

If you are at a beach without facilities you are going to want get to a bath tub as fast as possible and soak your foot in water that is as hot as you can take without burning yourself. (Cold beer and Advil is optional). If someone tells you to urinate on it, they are a weirdo and to be avoided.

If you are really in the middle of nowhere hot packs/compresses and even hot beach sand piled up on the foot can help alleviate the pain. 

It is very important that you clean the wound as the barb is covered in a slimy layer that collects bacteria and all of that bad stuff can end up in your wound. 

Worst case scenario the barb can break off inside your foot and need to be surgically removed by a doctor. In another rare case the barb will cut a larger blood vessel and bleeding control up to the point of using a tourniquet may be required and then you are going to the emergency room for sure.

Stingrays like to come into shallow water on flat beaches close to shore, where the waves aren’t breaking. When you are walking or wading into the water it is a good idea to shuffle your feet rather than taking big steps. The theory of doing the “Stingray Shuffle” is to get the unseen and unsuspecting stingray to scuttle off rather than you taking a step directly onto his back and then- whaaaamo!

Another spiky sea dweller to watch for is the sea urchin. Urchins usually inhabit rocky reef or the ocean floor among the kelp. From a distance they will look like a a dark blue, black or purple fuzzy sphere, but they are definitely not fuzzy. 

They are a slow moving pin cushion that also packs a sting along with infectious slime. If you step on one it is very important to make sure the spine is completely removed. If the spine doesn’t come out you risk it traveling through your body and having it make a painful exit through the front of your shin or elsewhere. 

Relatively rare in California, but one more sea creature with a sting to avoid is the Jelly Fish. Their sting can range from excruciating to almost imperceptible to adult skin. Either way you should avoid them so you don’t have to figure out the difference. Also be aware that Jelly Fish can still fire off their sting when they are washed ashore or look dead. This is because they are actually a colony of individual cells and not a single organism. They are definitely a case of look, but don’t touch. 

If you are stung vinegar can mitigate the sting, but definitely avoid rubbing the area with your hand. This can cause more of the stinging cells to fire. Similar to removing a bee’s stinger you should scrape the area affected with an object like the edge of your swim fins or use a handful of wet sand. 

Marine Mammals

You may see larger sea mammals on your trip to the beach such as Sea Lions and Seals. The easiest way to tell them apart is that seals do not have visible ears on the sides of their heads and get around on land by doing the worm. 

Sea lions can move quite quickly on land and both will bite if you approach them so give them the distance they deserve. Additionally, they are protected by Federal law and it is even illegal to “annoy” them- so don’t be annoying. 

Children

Even if Lifeguards are present you must keep an eye on your children at all times when you go to the beach. The Lifeguards’ main focus is to watch the water and all the people in it. So, let’s say that again: Watch Your Kids!

Small children can easily get disoriented on a crowded beach and get lost. Remember their line of sight is only a few feet above the ground. All the colorful towels and people blend in to one unfamiliar landscape.

Before any trip to the beach you should have a talk about what to do if they get lost. Remind them to never go in the water without you present and set up a place to meet in case they do get lost. 

Better still, take them to meet the Lifeguards at the nearby tower and let your child know the people in red trunks with the big patch are there to help and if they do get lost to go directly to the nearest Lifeguard tower. Some children are so well trained not to trust strangers they won’t even get into a Lifeguard truck when they are lost.

Make sure you pay attention to what your child is wearing that day. If your child gets lost have one person stay at your towel area and another go to the Lifeguards with your child’s name, age and description. After that the Lifeguards will share this information over the radio and everybody should be reunited shortly. 

This happens all the time at busy beaches, but you should do what you can to avoid it happening in the first place. It’s stressful on your child and takes away from the Lifeguard’s main mission of watching the water and making rescues.

Many times a parent will say they only turned their back for a moment and then their child was gone only to have little johnny found two miles away. Either that child is a future Olympic athlete or that “moment” was much longer than the parent first thought. Keep your nose out of your cell phone and enjoy the scenery.

Sun Protection

Skin Cancer is a real concern for people that are active outdoors. The good news is that it’s considered very preventable if the right steps are taken. 

We have more knowledge than ever about how to protect ourselves from the harmful effects of the sun, but let’s review:

Select a sunscreen that has broad spectrum protection. That means it filters out both UV A and UV B radiation.

Make sure your sunscreen is not expired. ( Yes it expires just like prescription medication and milk) Select a sunscreen that is PABA free and made for water activities.

Lube up at least 30 minutes before you go to the beach when your skin is cool and dry. Rub it in completely and remember to reapply as directed after sweating or being in the water.

Use enough to thoroughly cover the area you are trying to protect. Don’t forget to get your ears. If you missed a spot you are going to see and feel it later. 

Besides sunscreen cover up with a hat and sunglasses on land. Wearing a rash guard is an easy way to cover a large percentage of your upper body and know it won’t get burned. 

An umbrella is nice to have for and all day trip to the beach and it can also be a landmark for your children to keep an eye on when playing on the sand. 

Part of your sun protection plan should include staying hydrated and not over exerting yourself during the peak of the sun’s heat which is approximately 10:00 to 3:00.  

Also, don’t forget shoes or sandals. The sand, sidewalk and dirt trails can get hot enough to cause second degree burns.

For more information on preventing heat and sun related emergencies see our Article Here

Beach Fires

There’s nothing like ending a fun day at the beach with some s’mores and telling sea stories about the giant waves you rode, but just like any campfire you need to be responsible.

Most cities and state parks now require fires to only be allowed in a contained fire pit or in concrete fire rings provided. Children should be warned not to play near fire rings or where there are signs of a fire on the sand as smoldering coals can remain hot enough to cause serious burns for up to 72 hours. Additionally there can be old wire from coat hangers, broken glass and nails buried in the ashes. Severe burns to the bottom of a child feet still happen every year.

You should only burn clean wood that is devoid of all nails, paint or plastics. Make sure you know what type of wood you are burning plants such as oleander and poison oak can produce smoke toxic enough kill you.

Have Fun!

Going to the beach should be fun and relaxing, but you still need to realize the you are in nature just like going to the mountains. 

A little bit of preparation, common sense and keeping your wits about you will set you up for a fun day at the beach and a summer to remember- Cowabunga !

The post The DRB Guide to Beach Safety appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

As the days get more amenable to outdoor activities, both you and your canine partner want to get out and enjoy them.

Here are some thoughts from a veterinarian on making sure your outdoor adventures don’t end up in the vet’s office for something easily preventable.

• First off, make sure your pal is vaccinated.  Rabies is real and really deadly, and it’s not just in the 3^rd world.  Ideally, your dog should get his first rabies shot at around 3-4 months of age, another one a year later, then very likely every 3 years after that.
• Secondly, vaccinate for canine distemper and parvovirus (likely combined in a single dose given 3 times as puppies, then yearly to every 3 years).  Parvo is a freaking deadly disease that causes dogs to basically poop themselves to dehydration and death, and the vaccine is dirt cheap.
• Third, if you’re in an area with ticks (and we all are, basically), vaccinate your dog for Lyme Disease.  I tell folks that “no vaccine is 100% effective, but this definitely stacks the odds in your favor.”
• If your dog is going to be around other dogs, or your dog is a brachycephalic (short-nosed; think English Bulldog, Boxer, or Boston Terrier), get the kennel cough vaccine as well.  We all know those dogs have breathing problems, and a mild case of kennel cough could rapidly turn into pneumonia with these guys.

Let’s Go!

Now that your buddy is vaccinated, let’s talk about general Dog Maintenance:

• When you get outside, plan to bring fresh water for your pal.  Letting a dog drink out of a stream sounds like a great way to let him rehydrate, but they can get a fun disease called giardiasis (“beaver fever”).  This is a protozoan that causes diarrhea, and humans get this from outside water sources, too.  Plan on bringing enough fresh water for you and your pal, along with a collapsible water bowl for convenience.  Alternatively, you can bring a portable hiking water filter and you both can drink from it’s clear and clean discharge.  This is the first time I have ever combined “clear,” “clean,” and “discharge” into one run-along sentence.
• Keep an eye on your dog’s feet, specifically its pads.  The sensitive pads on the bottoms of a dog’s foot are calluses.  On hot days, they can burn easily on concrete and heated beach sand.  Rule of thumb: if it’s too hot to walk on a surface in bare feet, it’s too hot for a dog’s feet.
• If you’re in the Arctic Circle, consider a product called “Pad Dressing” to protect the pads from ice and salt.  It’s sold at canine boutiques and is basically a thick wax ointment that protects the pad surface.

Squirrel!

Wild animals! 

If your buddy comes back with a squirrel or chipmunk, don’t let him eat it… that could cause some serious vomiting, diarrhea, or worse.

Check his face and paws for bites if he brings back a small animal for your approval.  If you are in bear or bobcat country, don’t let your dog off-leash.  You want to be able to keep him out of danger and help you run away to fight another day.

Let’s talk about medicine, both preventive and reactive:

• When you get a IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) for yourself, add some items for your dog.  I would suggest Quick-Stop (styptic powder) for a broken nail, and some rolled gauze bandage material for a quick band-aid.

Other uses for gauze include making a loop out of it and improvising a muzzle if your pal is injured and you have to perform a rescue or painful procedure.  I have seen owners badly bitten by nice dogs when the dogs have been in severe pain the owners reach over to help them.  Be prepared for this!

Tick Spoon! 

What is a tick spoon, you ask?  It’s awesome.  It’s a tiny spoon with a notch in the cup portion.  You find an embedded tick and wedge the notch around it and lever the little bastard right out of the skin.  It’s like Insect Magic.  Ask your vet, or buy one at Tick Spoons R’ Us.  They’re invaluable.

• Neosporin can be used for very minor burns and cuts on your dog.  Don’t use too much, because they have a habit of licking it off and, while it’s not toxic, it might act as a bit of a laxative if they really go to town on it
• Aspirin, you ask?  I’m not a big fan of this in dogs.  Why is this?  The internet says it’s awesome, and people take it as well.  First off, an 81mg aspirin in a person makes the blood clot a bit less in people with heart problems.  That person might be 200 pounds.  You give that size of an aspirin, or a regular-sized 325mg buffered aspirin to a dog, and you’ve made their blood great at NOT clotting.  This might be a problem.  Plus, I don’t think a lot of folks think that aspirin nowadays is completely awesome for pain (headaches or muscle pain).  I’m a fan of canine-specific anti-inflammatories from your vet… ask about carprofen (Rimadyl), Deramaxx, Metacam liquid, and others that your vet might prescribe for your dog.  If you tell your vet about your situation at your next visit, they might give you a supply to keep in your DIFAK (Dog Individual First Aid Kit, keep up with me).
• Nail trimmers are good ideas… you’ll thank me the next time your dog runs after an evil squirrel and comes back with a broken nail and you’re three hours from help.  Trim the nail short, so it’s not dragging or hanging as the dog walks, and you’ll be able to walk out and to assistance.

What do I recommend for fleas and ticks? 

I like Advantage, Advantix, and other topicals.  Soresto Collars are great, and so is the new Bravecto chew (8-12 week flea and tick prevention in a single chew).  Frontline Plus is okay, but it’s not working for a full month in some areas… you may have to use it more often than you think for it to work.

A word about home remedies like garlic… DON’T DO IT.  Garlic can cause anemia and liver problems in dogs.  It’s not worth the hassle for a questionable treatment at best.  Spring for the professional topicals and ensure your dog is protected in a professional way.

Up close with a Dog Tick

PRO TIP:  Treat your dogs and cats for fleas at the beginning of the Spring, even if they are 100% indoors, or you have indoor cats and dogs that go out to pee and poop.  If you treat every single animal in your house AT THE SAME TIME (meaning same day), and you keep treating the indoor/outdoor ones monthly, this will prevent the rare flea or tick hitching a ride into your house and setting up a breeding facility on your indoor pets.  The indoor animals may only need to be treated every few months, but keep the outdoor guys on a monthly schedule.

My last thought is this: 

If you’re getting hot and tired and thirsty outside, it’s a sure bet your canine pal is feeling the same way.  Avoid strenuous exercise in the hottest part of the day, provide plenty of fresh cold water, and be proactive about cooling and rehydration.

Watch for ticks!

Being a prepared and responsible pet owner and doing just a small amount of planning in advance means both you and your dog will have a far better time enjoying the great outdoors!

The post Preparing your K9 for summer activities and summer surprises. appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

Leave No Trace.

It is a philosophy ingrained in many outdoorsmen and used by organizations and groups like the Boy Scouts of America, Appalachian Mountain Club and military units operating behind enemy lines. The idea sounds simple, leave no evidence of using the landscape and preserve the resources in their natural state.

If we value the resources we enjoy recreating in, there is no reason to disagree with this respectful approach. This philosophy holds true in many circles but there are times when it is alright to let others know you came before them. As you’ll read, sometimes it is proper etiquette to leave a trace to improve the wilderness experience of those who follow you. Sometimes, it might save a life.

Back in 2013, I traveled to Sweden with a good friend and we embarked on an epic cross-country trip through the country in search of meatballs, scandi-ground blades and bushcraft adventure. We rented a car and because of the “right to access” laws, we were allowed to camp anywhere we wanted on our journey as long as we left it the way we found it and didn’t stay in any particular spot for more than two nights.  We were in awe of the land and we found the idea of working with Swedish bushcraft gear in Sweden pretty novel.

While searching around for a campsite one night on our trip within the Arctic Circle, we stumbled upon an incredible campsite near a lake just outside of Jokkmokk. Even though there is near 24 hours of daylight in the summer, it was late enough when we needed to set up camp, search for wood, cook our dinners and settle in for the nights. The sounds of wolves in the distance added to our elevated excitement and growing realization we wanted a good fire right then and there.

That night in Jokkmokk, we fell into our usual routine of finding large fuel and then processing small fuel into kindling and tinder in the form of fuzz sticks. No sooner did I create my first curled feather stick did John point out a stash of wood left behind by the last camper and most importantly a few fuzz-sticks pre-made and tucked inside the pile of wood to prevent moisture from sinking into the delicate ribbons.

With a spark from my ferro rod, we had our fire and were spared some time to reflect on the bushcraft etiquette we both read about but just experienced, first hand. The next morning, before we left, I paid it forward by splitting some birch rounds and leaving a few fuzz sticks in the same manner I found the ones I used the night before.

You see, there is a time when leaving signs of your presence is welcomed. In Sweden, this manifests itself in the practice of travelers leaving fuzz sticks behind for the next camper to utilize. A similar practice found across the pond in hunting cabins by leaving a couple matches sticking out of a matchbox.

These matches readily accessible on top of a wood stove along with a healthy bundle of softwood twigs inside could be a game changer to a cold passerby. In both circumstances, the idea is to think of the next person using the shelter or area. Assuming the next person is injured, your actions may save their life when they can’t procure or prepare a fire in their weakened state. It’s for this reason, on many trips, I leave fuzz sticks behind wherever I camp.

Another common practice that casts aside “leave no trace” values is found on the Appalachian Trail and similar long hikes. Many hikers will leave behind spare parts, extra fuel and other trail goodness in shelters as a way of paying it forward to the next hiker. Assuming a certain stretch of trail is covered and an excess of equipment is leftover, one might choose to leave a spare freeze-dried food behind or hank of paracord or new/unused socks. Of course, this type of charity is not without its share of people using hiker recycle boxes as a dumping ground for gear no one would want to claim. In theory, whatever is left should be serviceable, clean and free of funk.

Bushcraft and other outdoor pursuits bring together some incredibly good-hearted people. The camaraderie built around a fire is rivaled only by that created by sharing an adverse experience.  It is easy to get wrapped up in the nature we surround ourselves with but we should never lose sight of our own safety and survival or that of the next person.

When all the chores are done for the day, it is good knife practice to feather sticks around the fire and see how well you can control your edge. It passes the time when conversations go quiet and leaves a positive trace for the next traveler to take advantage of in a time of need.

The post Take only photos, leave only footprints…and fuzz sticks. appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

If you’ve ever spent the night in the woods without a fire, you know how potentially cold and lonely it can be. There’s no light, there’s no peaceful crackling of the wood, and there’s no warmth. 

When you spend a night in the great outdoors without a fire, you spend the night all alone. That loneliness can be turned off very easily with a scrape of a ferro rod. If you’re not careful dealing with your loneliness, you may end up dealing with a much larger problem. You may find the fire you created for comfort puts you in a really uncomfortable position when you can’t extinguish it. 

A campfire should be understood in 4 phases:

• preparation
• starting
• maintenance
• extinguishing

Instead of focusing on the exciting and overshadowing stages of making fire and building it up, we wanted to present the details of fire preparation and extinguishing to make sure you don’t inadvertently invite a “companion” around the fire that won’t go away and actually could endanger the lives of others.

 
Preparation

You should never make a fire you can’t put out and you must think about the 2nd and 3rd order of effects if your fire gets out of hand before you light that match, lighter, or spark that ferro rod. 

By thinking about the “what ifs”, you can be aware of what you need to prepare to safely have a fire in your camp. 

Fire preparation is more than just staging your fire in your desired lay. It is more than collecting firewood although in the winter this seems like an ongoing and never-ending task. Fire preparation means setting up a relatively safe pit or ring where you can enjoy your campfire without the fear of it spreading.
 

Whenever I enter a camping area, I look for a good location to place my campfire. This means looking up above my head for low-hanging branches that could dry out and catch as well as looking down for softwood roots such as pines, firs, and spruces. Believe it or not, fires in the root system have been known to travel underground over long distances. 

Once I establish a good location, I will either rake the area around the center of the fire pit with my foot or I’ll grab a branch and use it as a broom to remove duff, pine needles, and leaves. Should a spark or ember jump from the eventual fire, I don’t want it to land outside the pit and spread.
 

When building a fire, you can dig down into the ground and create a pit that will contain the coals that will form. This pit also serves the purpose of gravity-assisting the logs to the center of it. 

There’s nothing worse than laying next to a fire relaxing and having a rolling log fall from it and head your direction- so much for that relaxed feeling!

Depending on the size of the fire, I will often just make a small shallow hole in the ground just big enough for a fire to serve my purposes of cooking or heating my tarp shelter for the night. 

I don’t need a large bonfire and the shallow pit is easily controlled. The pit you dig will also protect your fire and heat source from the wind. Smaller fires also conserve your woodpile for the night.
 

What many outdoorsmen will do is create a fire ring using rocks. This is the classic campfire staple with rocks lining the fire pit circumference. These rocks will work as a shallow pit to contain logs from rolling out and onto you. 

They also can be configured like a keyhole to allow you to more easily cook with them by drawing ashes to put under your pot/pan/grill. These rocks should be gathered from dry areas. 

Having had a rock explode in my face (I have video proof and will show you if we meet in person!) that was gathered from a damp micro depression, I will say the old suggestion of avoiding rocks from streams needs to be modified to “any wet area.”

Extinguishing

After your fire has been lit, maintained, and run its course, you’ll need to extinguish it. The surest proof way of doing this is drowning it with copious amounts of water. This does not mean urinating on it and calling it good. 

This means using your water bottle, water bladder, or bucket over and over until the depression you dug is now a bowl of water with no steam rising from it. I generally will break up a fire and spread the leftover logs a few minutes before pouring water over it. This will help slow down the rate the wood is burning and make your job easier.

Do not confuse drowning with suffocating your fire. Sure, you’ve learned a blanket can be used to cover a person on fire (didn’t we all learn this from the movies?) but you shouldn’t think about covering your fire with a cloth or the dirt you removed to dig the depression. Burying a fire may snuff out the flame but the heat and fuel will still be present. Think about it, the Hawaiian Imu oven used for luaus can cook an entire pig for over 8 hours underground. 

You could easily leave a fire burning and it would pose a risk when the heat travels or when the wind blows the earth off of the pit. Sand, soil, and strata of all different types of earth should not be used. Remember, use water, lots of water.

When you believe you have drowned the fire, look carefully. Make sure you don’t see any residual embers or even smoke coming off the logs in the fire pit. Pull the larger logs out of the soupy water/ash concoction and feel them to be sure. Warm is fine but cold is better. As long as they aren’t hot to the touch, you can be reasonably sure your fire pit is safe to leave behind.

If you’re truly concerned about spreading fire from your campsite to the nearby woods, don’t build a fire. Common sense should always prevail. If the wind is howling or if the conditions are extremely dry, ask yourself, “what would a reasonable person do?” 

Camping without a fire can be lonely but if you are prepared ahead of time, you can bring a LED lantern and mitigate the effects of the darkness. Many times, even during a fire ban, small canister stoves are allowed to let you cook a hot meal. 

Technology can be your friend when fire-ban conditions are in place and you are a friend to the entire wild space when you are fire-safe and abide by all of the posted fire restrictions. 

The post Campfire Safety appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

“Take care of your gear, and your gear will take care of you” is one of Danger Ranger Bear’s basic rules for the outdoors. The proper care, use and maintenance of your outdoor equipment will not only extend its life and provide you with more use and enjoyment, it also means your gear will be working for you when you need it most. There are obvious examples of gear that your life literally depends on such as climbing equipment, but many items we take for granted such as sleeping bags, clothing and even your flashlight need to perform when the going gets rough.

To get the most out of your gear, an adventurer needs to take the necessary time to inspect their gear before and after each use and then properly clean and store items afterward. Sometimes this can be hard to do, especially after a trip when you may be tired and just want to dump everything in a corner of the garage until “later”. However, the time and attention to detail will payoff when you are ready to use it again and need everything to be in good working order.

We have compiled a list of common pieces of gear and tips to extend their life and maintain performance.

Everything Looks Good From Here!

Your Adventure Mobile.

Did you go on any road trips on road trips or do a lot of driving over the summer vacation? Now is probably a good time to rotate your tires, check levels and change the oil and other fluids. I new set of wipers is nice for when the rain begins. I bet your car hasn’t been washed and waxed for quite a while either. This actually protects your car’s paint job and gives you a chance to look at the metal on your car more closely and look for signs of rust and deep scratches that may need touch up paint. For a more in-depth vehicle check list check out our article Pre-Road Trip Vehicle Check List

Fleece and Hard-Shells.

Probably the biggest foe of your performance clothing is fabric softeners; both liquid and sheets. Fabric softeners negatively effect materials by clogging the fabric with residues that ultimately reduce the insulating, breathability and water repellency. Regular washing is fine and there are gentle detergents made specifically for performance materials that wash away cleanly. If you are using standard detergents a second rinse may be required to make sure that all soap is removed. It’s a good idea to wash your garments with the main zips closed and the pockets open to allow the wash to do it’s job without overly stressing the piece.

Clothing with a Durable Water Repellent coating (DWR) require a periodic tune up. You’ll know its time when water doesn’t bead on the surface like it used to when your garment was new. This usually happens in areas that get higher wear such as the top of the shoulders due to pack straps.There are several brands of sprays such as Granger’s that can be used to refresh the water repellency. Simply wash, apply a spray and then dry on a low setting. Following the manufacturer’s washing and care instructions will increase the longevity of your garments, keep them functioning and you warm and dry for years to come.

Don’t forget those zippers, if you have any zippers that don’t glide easily you can use a graphite pencil if it’s not too bad. Otherwise there are a variety of wax, silicone and teflon based zipper lubricants available online or at outdoor stores.

Knives and Tools.

We already know that a dull knife is dangerous, but your knife and tools should also be cleaned and oiled periodically. I like to use a q-tip to clean away pocket fuzz or grime from pivots and hinges a well as inside the handles of folders. After cleaning, apply a small amount of oil on areas that move and a thin layer on metal surfaces. Wipe off the excess with a clean cloth to prevent rust. WD-40 works fine for this. If your knife comes into contact with salt water, rinse it with warm water as soon as possible, dry it and then apply the oil.

Optics and lenses.

Dust, fingerprints and oils should always be cleaned from lenses as soon as possible. This will not only to provide a clearer view or sharper camera shot, but prevents damage. The grease from fingerprints can cause damage to optical coatings. Chemicals such as those found in sunscreen can even melt the polycarbonate lenses in sunglasses. You should never clean your optics with your shirt or other cotton cloth. Though it may feel soft, the material can actually leave scratches or wear surface coatings. Always use a micro-fiber cloth specifically made for the cleaning of your lenses. Make sure to blow away dust or grit before wiping to make sure you aren’t grinding more abrasive material into the glass. Use cases and storage bags whenever possible to maintain cleanliness.

Sleeping Bags.

Usually all your bag needs after a camping trip is to be aired out for a day and then put away in it’s storage sack. Over washing your sleeping bag can reduce the loft and effectiveness of your bag meaning chilly nights in what otherwise should be a warm bag. By all means when you bag is too dirty and smelly wash it!

Much like your fleece, wash your sleeping bag using gentle detergents or those made specifically for the task. Make sure it is rinsed thoroughly and then air dry if possible. When you aren’t using your sleeping bag it should be stored in a large breathable bag, not the stuff sack. Leaving your sleeping bag in the stuff sack negatively effects the fill and eventually the performance. You should inspect you bag for rips and leaking fill and then have it repaired or sew it yourself.

Expiration Dates.

Packaged food, medicine, insect repellent and even sunscreen have a shelf life. Check these dates before heading out and discard expired items. Expired products can be less effective or dangerous if used after the manufacturer’s date.

Surfboards.

With the change of seasons the water temperature is going to take a dip. Fall is a good time to strip off all off all the warm water wax accumulated on your board over summer and give it a new coat of cool/ cold temperature wax for the upcoming winter season.

Stripping off all your wax also gives you a chance to inspect the deck of your board for any open cracks or dings you may have without knowing it. Look for any discoloration of the foam as a sign of water intrusion. Also checkoff cracks around leash plugs and fins system boxes.

When strip a board I lay it in the sun for just a few minutes to let the wax soften up. Then using a wax comb scrape off all the old, dirty wax. When I’m done I use a citrus oil based wax remover and a paper towel to get off any last remaining residue. If you don’t have a wax comb handy an old credit card or plastic putty knife will work too.

Now that you are ready to re-wax your board pick the appropriate formula for the water temperatures you will be surfing in. I like to first put down a layer of base coat which provides harder and better beads for improved traction. You’ll also only need a light coat of cool or cold wax on top. If you can’t find base coat you can just use tropical formula to lay down that first firm coat.

Finally, replace your leash string. It’s a little thing, but it can save you a long swim and your board potentially getting smashed on some rocks. I use parachute cord tied with a figure- 8 knot. Leave some tail so the knot can cinch down after first using it and make sure the loop end short of your boards rail or it could pull through your board under heavy pressure.

Dive Gear

Besides skydiving SCUBA diving with poorly maintained equipment is about the dumbest and most dangerous thing you can do.

If you remember back when you were being certified your instructor should have taught and tested you on how to read the marking on your tank and when to service it, but we’ll remind you again.

Regulator service intervals can vary among manufacturers between every year/ 100 dives to every two years 200/300 dives. You should never make do or put up with a regulator that gives any hint of not working properly such as free flowing.- *see skydiving analogy above.

Proper service intervals by factory approved technicians is also the only way to maintain the warranty of your gear. You should never make do or put up with a regulator that gives any hint of not working properly. In addition to regular service by professionals you need to do your part by properly cleaning and storing your gear after each and every dive.

Your BCD also requires regular inspection and maintenance similar to that of your regulator. A BCD service usually includes checking of all straps, cleaning inside and out, inspection/ replacement of valves, and a leak test.

Unlike regulators and BCDs, all tanks have the same servicing requirements. Regardless of the manufacturer, the number of times in use or material (steel or aluminum), all tanks should receive a visual inspection every year and a hydrostatic inspection every 3-5 years.

A USAF Para Rescueman must trust both his parachute and dive rig.

(there should be a sticker and engraving on your tank that you can refer to) You should always be on the look out for dents, cracks or escaping air. Never dive a tank if you see any of these things. Though rare, a total tank failure can happen, but you don’t want to be breathing from a possibly contaminated tank either. 

Your fins should also get a good looking over too. depending on their style and construction you want to focus on the heel straps that are dry and cracking and any cuts. Some of the most resilient fins once cut will continue to tear. You shouldn’t store your fins by hanging them from the straps.

Wetsuits.

Wetsuits are better than ever these days; way more stretch and warmth in a lighter package. The trade off for lighter and faster is usually durability, but with simple care your suit will perform well for several years.

Whether it’s a dive or surfing suit you should always rinse it in cold water after each use and hang it in a shady place. Use a wetsuit shampoo/ cleaner on a regular basis. It will keep it from smelling bad and will keep the neoprene supple and retain heat better.

Always hang your suit with a plastic or wooden hanger that won’t rust. Hang it like you would a pair of pants through the hanger, not like a jacket. Hanging it from the inside will place stress on the shoulders of your suit due to its own weight and will eventually stretch it out causing cracking and water intrusion- you’ll know it when you feel it!

Foot Wear

How old are your hiking boots? Are the treads worn down, is the sole separating? Do your leather boots need to be re-waxed? How about your laces- are they frayed?

Considering how much time we spend on our feet keeping you foot wear in good working order should be a no brainer. If your boots have reached the end of their lifespan it’s a good idea to replace them as soon as possible and begin to break them in (if needed) so they are ready when you are.

Time Piece

It’s pretty easy to find an affordable and tough time watch these days, but the still need a little TLC. Just like your fins and various O-rings a rubber strap can become dried out and brittle with age. Having a spare strap is or replacing every few years is a good idea. Just the other day I pulled a watch I don’t wear much out of drawer where it had been for a year or so and the rubber strap was in two pieces. Had that happened while surfing or hiking, I probably would have lost the whole watch. Amazon and Ebay are two good sources for finding watch straps even if it’s for a discontinued model. 

If you have a quartz watch it’s a good idea to replace the battery at a regular intervals. It’s a fairly cheap process and definitely worth it if you have had the watch for a few years and are about to go on a trip. Most importantly, have it done by a reputable jeweler or watch repair facility that can also pressure test it to make sure it won’t leak. 

Electronic Devices.

More and more from GPS to lights and headlamps, you need batteries for your trip. For items I don’t use often I take the batteries out, just in case they leak. Otherwise, I replace them once a year or as needed before use. You should always have spares with you- the few extra ounces may literally be a life saver if you become lost or need to signal at night.

If your device has internal batteries or you are using rechargeable batteries make sure you give them a full cycle to drain and recharge for best performance.

Another thing to consider when buying rechargeable lights etc do a little research and try to buy gear that uses the same sized power cords like USB-c that way you only need to carry one sized cord for all of your devices.

Ropes and Carabiners.

Without a doubt sand is the enemy of your climbing equipment. Sand can get into carabiners making the gates stick, and work its way into the locks. Most debris can be blown out or you may use a weak soap solution to rinse out your carabiner, and then properly dry it. This is mandatory if you have come into contact with salt water. If it continues to not function properly it should be discarded. Any ‘biners that have been dropped a significant distance or those with outward signs of damage such as cracking, missing rivets, burrs or bending should be thrown away. The reason for discarding damaged carabiners is to ensure that they aren’t mistakenly used and thus creating a hazardous situation when climbing.

Rope should always be placed on a tarp and never be stepped on because it can cause grains of sand to penetrate the sheath.The jagged edges of the sand grains can cut the internal strands and weaken the rope. Dirty rope should be cleaned using a rope cleaning device and then hung to dry in shade. You should inspect every inch of your rope both visually and feeling with your hands to identify areas of abrasions, soft spots or cuts. Rope that shows any sign of excessive wear or has been shock loaded should be cut up immediately so it cannot be used again for climbing.

Travel Documents.

You never know when you might get an invitation to a quick trip to Mexico for some surfing and fishing- Is your passport and insurance information up to date?

It’s also a good idea to make photocopies of all of your important travel documents as well as have a few emergencies numbers written down ready when traveling abroad.

****WARNING*****ALWAYS follow all manufacturer’s guidelines for when and why to periodically retire your rope and carabiners. Your life depends on these tools and they should be used properly and maintained to be in peak condition.

The post Maintaining Your Equipment appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

As winter sets in some of us take a break from our adventuring.  We retire to hearth and home.  Sit by the fire, make repairs to our adventure gear and plan for the spring and summer ahead-Some of us, the rest of us get out after it.

Adventuring in cold weather can be a great change of pace, a noteworthy challenge, or simply an opportunity to ditch the cabin fever but, like with any other environmental concern, it has to be done right.  The most important thing to remember about adventuring in cold weather is dressing appropriately.  Remember, your clothing isn’t just a fashion statement; it is a shelter that moves with and on you.

The human body operates most efficiently at a temperature range of between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit.  What we are attempting to do with how we dress, in the heat but especially in the cold, is to create a microclimate.  Picture a bubble of air around your body that is right at room temperature, no matter what the weather conditions are outside. This makes those cold weather outings seem, eh, not so extreme.

To properly dress for cold weather activities remember a few simple things:

Number 1- COTTON KILLS

Don’t take that the wrong way, I love my cotton stuff too.  I rock my jeans and I rock my Mountain Khakis, and my sweatshirts and my flannels.  But not out on a cold weather adventure.  Why not? Because cotton absorbs water, that’s why your towels are made of it.  Why is that a bad thing?  Well, if your cold weather clothes are made of cotton, and they get soaked with sweat, then your body will stay wet which makes keeping warm that much more difficult.  This may be a minor annoyance during the working phase of your adventure.  But when you stop, whether it is to make some food or put up a tent, your body stops generating heat, which means that the cold from outside will penetrate your clothing, which means that that moisture is right next to your skin, which means that you will go from hot and wet, to cold and wet a lot faster than you think.  The body uses moisture to help cool it, which is not what you want when it is cold outside.

Wool and Cashmere are excellent insulators, even when wet!

Number 2- DRESS IN LOOSE LAYERS

“Why” you ask?  “I just got a bad ass new thick down parka.”  That’s great, IF you’re on Everest, you can rock that thing.  But here’s the deal, what keeps us warm is not, actually, our clothing- It is our bodies.  Your body heat warms the air trapped in between layers, which in turn, insulates you from the cold outside.  If you pile on a single, thick, layer you will be comfortable at say -20 and 80 but nothing in between.  If you dress in multiple lighter layers you can keep yourself warm and cool from 80 to -20 and everything in between as you add or remove layers based on the outside temperature and your level of exertion.

Number 3-LAYER YOURSELF APPROPRIATELY 

There are three layers that you need to consider:

Wicking layer-This lies next to your skin. Its primary purpose is to transport your sweat away from your body.  Yes, it may do some insulating, but it is primarily there to get sweat away from you.

Insulating layer-Your wicking layer may be thick or thin or may consist of more than one insulating piece depending on the outside temperature and your level of exertion.  The insulating layer’s job is to create those air pockets for your body to warm AND to continue to move your perspiration away from your body.  An insulating layer that doesn’t do that is no good.  Remember our conversation about cotton?

Wind/weather layer- This outer layer’s primary job is to turn away the wind, rain and the snow.  There are a number of ways to do this, hard or soft-shell, rain shell, etc.  Most advanced shells are made with Gore-Tex or some other semi permeable membrane.  What THIS means is that the material itself, and I mean the Gore-Tex or whatever other membrane that company is using, is actually porous.  The holes are small enough to allow your perspiration to escape but too small for water to get in.  This, working in combination with the tendency of heat to radiate from a hot area to a less hot area allows your perspiration to evaporate off of the shell without letting the outside water in.  Also a good shell will have numerous ways to allow additional heat to escape.  This allows you to keep that inner temperature, the one in your microclimate, between 65-75 degrees, which as we mentioned before, is optimum for human performance.

Number 4- STAY DRY

The human body has a very hard time keeping itself warm when it is wet.  By this I mean both keep outside moisture from getting in and make sure you temperature regulate to prevent excess sweating.

Number 5- EAT

Your body burns up to 30% more calories in cold weather, especially at high altitude, than it does in warm weather.  You need to keep your body properly fueled in order to perform.

Number 6- DRINK

You are also losing more moisture than you think.  Again, especially at high altitude. You need to hydrate.

Number 7- KEEP YOUR FEET DRY

Your feet are locked in, generally, non-breathable boots.  All the perspiration that your feet are producing is going… nowhere.  What happens is that in the early stages, this moisture makes your feet cold, which makes you cold. In later stages, after prolonged periods of being wet, our feet begin to re-absorb the sweat. Your skin swells and gets soft and you begin to damage your feet.  I have seen people remove their boots and socks… only to have the bottom of their foot come off with the sock.

With today’s advancements in outdoor clothing and their proper use, adventuring in cold weather can be just as exhilarating as adventuring in the warm weather of summer and, if you follow these rules, you’ll be a big step closer to making that adventure as safe as possible.

Leave us comments in the section below and let the DRB community know your personal tricks for enjoying your favorite cold weather activities, and share this article with your friends and family, so they too can adventure year round wisely and wildly.

The post 7 Easy Steps to Dress for Cold Weather appeared first on Danger Ranger Bear.

Many of us use lanyards on our folding knives. Some of them are clearly to protect knives from getting lost, dropping into water, etc. but it’s very rare to see a folding knife with a lanyard such as a long wrist-sized loop.

Most of the lanyards we see today are short, with a big bold bead, and they really can’t play such a utilitarian role. So… why bother? Is it just for the looks? A lot of people ask me why I attach a 2-3 inch lanyard to my folders?  Is there any point except that sometimes it just looks cool? Well, let me tell you… I consider a short lanyard a true necessity on my EDC folder and I’ll tell you why.

How fast can you draw a folder from your pocket? Couple of seconds, right? Especially if there is at least 1” of the handle exposed. However, there is a growing trend in the EDC folders to make them more socially acceptable to carry, which means not obviously visible and recognizable as a knife in the pocket. Custom makers and major manufacturers offer more and more low-profile deep-carry clips. How fast would you draw the knife then? Easy answer – not fast at all! And especially when you are seated at your desk, or in a bar, in a train, etc. But a short lanyard can make a considerable difference in such a situation. Don’t believe me? Well, just try it! Of course that applies only to tip-up carry knifes, but the vast majority of tactical and EDC folders go tip-up these days. And I keep some sort of a lanyard on all of them:

There is one specific situation, which makes no-lanyard folder carry even worse. Yeah… in the car. Not only are you seated but there is also a seatbelt, which blocks exactly the area, where your EDC rides. And if your knife protrudes  1” or more from the pocket, well, it can be possibly fully blocked under the seatbelt. No chance to grab it, especially fast and under stressful conditions.

And below the same situation but with a lanyard, which makes life much easier! Again, sit in the car and try for yourself. On a side note – I add some kind of bead to my lanyards – so that I can always get a really good grip (also with gloves) and with the weight of the bead, the lanyard is always clearly positioned down by gravity. It just works. And last but not least the lanyard bead can be also a tool, like the PDW Titanium skull with integrated hex wrench socket.

Another aspect to consider when carrying your knife is the environment you will be in. At the office it may be more appropriate to have a more subtle appearance. It’s still possible to carry your knife and look professional by using a lanyard- sometimes I carry a mid-size Spyderco folder inside the small pocket of my jeans – not too obvious to spot, but still ready when I need it. Not using the pocket clip like this will also save wear and tear on your finer  dress clothes.

Of course you can add some kind of leash to the lanyard. I really like the PDW mini-coil, which is a must on my pocket knife when fishing or sailing. It doesn’t disturb or limit my movements in its compressed position but still offers full reach when extended. I usually attach it to my belt, but it can also be attached to the D-ring on my tactical pants or to a belt keeper. I prefer coil-keepers vs standard wrist loops as it secures the knife also in pocket (or sheath) so it’s not possible to lose it no matter what I do, including leaning out overboard when trying to safely land the catch of the day when fishing.

So yeah, in my view, a short lanyard on my knife is an essential part of my every day carry and makes me feel like a true edc ninja. It really became obvious to me when I started using my first Chris Reeve Sebenza more than a decade ago, which comes with a short lanyard as standard. Sure you can use other materials than military grade paracord to leash your knife –  a leather thong and braided lines also work well.

Apart from all the practical aspects, at the end of the day, a nice bead and lanyard combo looks cool on any knife as well, which is not a bad thing.

Cheers!

Wild Boar

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Who doesn’t love the outdoors? I mean, fresh air, cool breezes, the sound the wind makes as it blows through incense cedar or pine? I can imagine someone could chime in with a dissenting view here, but you get the general point I’m making. It’s nice out!

I was thinking just this thing not too long ago as I pulled off a mountain highway in the Sierra Nevada mountains, on my way to a Forest Route that leads to a nice high Sierra lake. I was happy to be out of my office, checking out my local territory for “bag guys” and really using it as an excuse to go exploring.

I’m terribly lucky. I get paid to “play” at cops and robbers, but out in the great outdoors. I am a natural resources law enforcement agent, which equates to somewhat of a professional outdoorsman (so they say), equipped with more gear than know-how (speaking only for myself of course).

On this particular day I had decided to finally find my way to a lake not far off the beaten Forest Route, to see if anyone had made it past the snow line yet this season. For reference we had just had snow down to about 3000 feet the weekend before, and a trip up this particular route the week before proved short-lived as my off road skills, tires and the relatively small snow pack had kept me back about 100 yards from my turn off to the lake in question. This day I was determined to make it.

Make it I did, at least to the turn off. I thought I was well on my way, figuring I had another 15 minutes until I hit the lake, ate some lunch and then headed back to my office to get some other work done. It was close to noon and everything felt great. Heading up the track I noticed what looked like one other set of recent vehicle tracks in the slushy road.

A quarter mile up the route to the lake I spotted a nice shady part of the mountain that was hiding a large bank of un-melted snow on the road. As I got closer I remember thinking I had made it this far, I wasn’t about to turn back. I quickly made a mental list of gear I had to get through the snow.

I had a flat shovel. Ok, I had the shovel and a winch…and common sense. Right? In a sense I guess I did, as I checked my phone and saw I had excellent cell signal on that side of the mountain, and knew that if I really got stuck I could just call in help.

As any off roader more experienced than this suburban guy turned outdoor cop will note, I didn’t have any kind of medium to put in my tracks. No kitty litter or saw dust or sand.

Anyhow, I charged on with the Jeep in 4×4 mode, picking up speed as I reached the snow that obscured the dirt road. The Jeep naturally slipped into the tracks from the previous vehicle as I lurched ahead. Then I felt that wonderful feeling when all four wheels lose traction and the vehicle just flops down on something.

Yup, I got stuck. I put the Jeep in reverse and no dice. I put the Jeep in 4-low, no dice. I laughed. Then I got my gloves out and my shovel and went to get some dirt from the side of the road to try and lay a track to get out of the snow.

That didn’t work, and I quickly realized I was bottomed out all along the underside of the Jeep. I felt good though, optimistic. I decided to start digging. It must have been some sight, seeing me dig around all the sides of the Jeep, only to stop every 5 minutes or so to test my progress and find none. As minutes turned to a half an hour, then an hour I finally decided to give in and use my winch to pull myself free.

Here’s where the real fun began. I had never tested my winch. I got my Jeep for work about a year and a half before this point, but had never stopped to test out all my gear on it. In fact, I had never used a winch in my life, and this was the first time I had ever had a vehicle with one. I sat there dumbfounded when I realized this fact and that I had no idea how to use it.

So naturally I turned to our good friends at Google, yes, I Googled that stuff! I found my remote for the winch, and then went to unwind the cable. I tried to rotate the clutch on the winch to free spool and it wouldn’t budge. Checking Google again, it appeared that the thing should just rotate freely. I tried pulling, pushing, looking for a hidden release. Nothing. I could pull a little of the cable out, but was afraid to get it all the way out and not be able to winch it back in. The nearest anchor point was a good distance away.

I also noted that I didn’t have tow straps. Thinking I was brilliant, I checked my various packs in the back of the vehicle for my p-cord and realized I didn’t have any of that either.

Now growing frustrated and slightly defeated, I went back to digging. The only other option was to call a coworker, but that would ensure I would never live down getting stuck. I mean, who wants to deal with that, right?

After another hour of digging the rain started. I was prepared for that at least, and threw on my old trust Marmot Precip jacket I keep in my gear. The rain turned to a dusting of snow, and the thought did cross my mind that I might actually need to call for assistance, as I was good and stuck!

After a total of 3 hours digging and swearing at my situation the Jeep dropped down as I cleared out the last of the snow holding the weight of the vehicle off its wheels. I threw the shovel to the side and jumped in, took a nice clearing breath and started the engine. Thinking it best to retreat, I put the Jeep in reverse and slowly backed up. The wheels caught and I was free!

All in all I was stuck for close to 4 hours in the snow. I was probably 6 miles from the highway, not an impossible hike, but a total pain in the butt. I definitely could have called anyone I wanted for help, but pride kept me from doing anything like that. I learned quite a bit with this little adventure however.

First, prior planning prevents…getting your fancy off road vehicle stuck in the snow! With just a little preparation I could have been equipped to better handle my given challenge. Learning how to use my winch, carrying some kind of litter or saw dust and also having the common sense not to follow what were probably OHV tracks into a snow field of undetermined depth would have gone a long way to keeping much safer that day.

I share this story to poke a little fun at myself, help educate you good readers, and to keep myself accountable. After getting home that day I cleaned up my gear and then grabbed a rubber mallet. One good whack with the mallet freed up the seized clutch on the winch. A shot of WD40 loosened it up more and now I check it at least one a week.

I got lucky that day. I had food, water, layers of clothing and cell service. I was also confident that I could get to safety if I needed to. Who knows what could have happened though, if I didn’t have that shovel, and no cell service. That would have been one long hike!

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